To paint the appropriate picture, the train started off comfortable enough. Danny, Nick and I had purchased a reserved seat, so a place to sit was guaranteed. When the train left the first station, all seats were taken and there were a few people already standing in the aisles - a bad sign since we'd be picking up more and more passengers all along the way back to Delhi. Those standing had paid for a ticket to board but not for a seat. They'd be standing for the next 6-7 hours, well aware of how crowded the train car would get and also aware that there would be no air conditioning in this ticket class the entire way.
Gradually, more passengers boarded and soon the aisles were jammed so tightly with bodies, it was getting hard to breathe. Absolutely every possible millimeter of space was eventually occupied. Three people to each row had to smash ever more tightly into their chairs to allow a tiny inch for a standing passenger to rest his legs. If you were unfortunate enough to have the aisle seat, someone else's belly was regularly pressed against the side of your head; armpits were in every other person's face; passengers started sitting on the backs of chairs for more space; others were hanging out the doors of the train; and some braced themselves between the overhead compartments, a railing, and the side wall of the car. Mothers and fathers held babies for hours since there was no place for them to stand on the floor, and they'd probably be smashed in the next wave of passengers trying to plough through this human wall. If I had to guess, I'd say there were 300 people in that car with seats to accommodate 100. Add to this the heat and the sweat and the effect is dizzying. Heaven forbid you ever have to use the bathroom at that point. There's just absolutely NO WAY to get through that mass of bodies.
We endured these conditions for somewhere between 6 and 7 hours. I took note of one passenger sitting on the top of the back of the chair and decided to do the same for the last hour and half since I couldn't feel my legs anymore. Within minutes, the space that fit my body in the seat now only had room for my left foot which I used to support myself on the top of the chair. Space had become liquid - if it opened up, it was instantly filled by someone else.
Even though I was irritable and desperate for a shower by the end, it was actually remarkably fun! Observing all that was happening in that train car gave perspective on how the average Indian typically travels. It was the real India - not polished, sugar coated, or restrained. The real deal. I was fascinated by how many could cram into this car, the fact that they were willing to endure it, and the ingenuity that went into finding a comfortable perch. No where else have I ever seen this tolerated by travellers.
Sitting next to me was a man who works as a software engineer in Delhi. His English was perfect and he was returning from vacation in Naintal. We talked about my impressions of India, the people, the culture, how much has changed in only 10 years and where he hopes the direction of the country is going. As we passed through India's countryside in Uttar Pradesh, he identified the types of crops being grown in the fields flying by. He explained his views on the problem of rapid urbanization in India and the toll it takes on rural families who stay behind.
Across from me was a family of four also on their way home from a week vacation in Nainital. The parents were doctors from Jaipur and the husband had a sister living in Ohio. Their children were both under 10 but were exceptionally patient and content on the long, hot train ride. The mother asked if she could read the intro to my book, The Blue Sweater (a book about the author's work in economic development and micro-financing), and when she finished she, Danny and I began a long conversation about development in India and the state of healthcare for Indians. She happens to specialize in blood cancer patients.
As I sat there enjoying ever minute of these interesting conversations, I couldn't help but wonder what this family of doctors and this software engineer were doing on the cheapest and least comfortable train car available. It changed my impressions about certain aspects of Indian lifestyle. I had the impression that one wouldn't find businessmen or professionals traveling this way. But my assumption was apparently dead wrong. I didn't consider that this is how it has always been done in India. Up to 10 or 20 years ago, the ride was probably even less comfortable. But this was normal to them. Discomfort for a little while really isn't a big deal. True, it's disgustingly hot, but we all had water and strangers shared their packed snacks with everyone close by. All that pushing and shoving in pure desperation for space quickly turned into friendliness as soon as space was acquired. Competitive but kind. I guess that's how aspects of Indian life can be summed up.
Hot and uncomfortable as it was, that train ride may well be one of my favorite memories of India. I was able to laugh at the chaos, learn more about India's development through interesting conversations, and began to understand so much more about the culture without ever leaving my chair for 6 hours. It was awesome.
Even though I was irritable and desperate for a shower by the end, it was actually remarkably fun! Observing all that was happening in that train car gave perspective on how the average Indian typically travels. It was the real India - not polished, sugar coated, or restrained. The real deal. I was fascinated by how many could cram into this car, the fact that they were willing to endure it, and the ingenuity that went into finding a comfortable perch. No where else have I ever seen this tolerated by travellers.
Sitting next to me was a man who works as a software engineer in Delhi. His English was perfect and he was returning from vacation in Naintal. We talked about my impressions of India, the people, the culture, how much has changed in only 10 years and where he hopes the direction of the country is going. As we passed through India's countryside in Uttar Pradesh, he identified the types of crops being grown in the fields flying by. He explained his views on the problem of rapid urbanization in India and the toll it takes on rural families who stay behind.
Across from me was a family of four also on their way home from a week vacation in Nainital. The parents were doctors from Jaipur and the husband had a sister living in Ohio. Their children were both under 10 but were exceptionally patient and content on the long, hot train ride. The mother asked if she could read the intro to my book, The Blue Sweater (a book about the author's work in economic development and micro-financing), and when she finished she, Danny and I began a long conversation about development in India and the state of healthcare for Indians. She happens to specialize in blood cancer patients.
As I sat there enjoying ever minute of these interesting conversations, I couldn't help but wonder what this family of doctors and this software engineer were doing on the cheapest and least comfortable train car available. It changed my impressions about certain aspects of Indian lifestyle. I had the impression that one wouldn't find businessmen or professionals traveling this way. But my assumption was apparently dead wrong. I didn't consider that this is how it has always been done in India. Up to 10 or 20 years ago, the ride was probably even less comfortable. But this was normal to them. Discomfort for a little while really isn't a big deal. True, it's disgustingly hot, but we all had water and strangers shared their packed snacks with everyone close by. All that pushing and shoving in pure desperation for space quickly turned into friendliness as soon as space was acquired. Competitive but kind. I guess that's how aspects of Indian life can be summed up.
Hot and uncomfortable as it was, that train ride may well be one of my favorite memories of India. I was able to laugh at the chaos, learn more about India's development through interesting conversations, and began to understand so much more about the culture without ever leaving my chair for 6 hours. It was awesome.
The picture doesn't do the experience justice, but just to give you an idea, here's a glimpse of how crowded the ride was:
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